Skin: Actives for your skin! The top billing superstars:
There are some key players on the skin care actives scene that are must haves for your at home skincare routine without a doubt. There is a lot out there so allow me to keep this as simple as possible. I am going to be discussing actives that no one, despite your skin type and its current condition, should be without.
Why actives? Because we want results right?! Think anti-aging when you think actives. Anti-aging sounds expensive right? Well, it can be, but you have to think skip or splurge. What is truly going to be beneficial versus just perfumey bubbles in a jar. If a products contain a lot of fillers, artificial fragrances, are mass produced and contain non-sustainable sourced ingredients, they are not the best option for the earth, the animals that they test on and for your own skin in general. Big No thank you!!! Skin is the body’s largest organ! We wanna treat it right. With just a little effort and some scientific know how, you can start seeing fruits of your labor in a short about of time because you have taken the time to give yourself the gift of proper self care. Give your skin the best! Don’t feed your skin junk food, feed it products that contain actives that are clean, green and results driven!
PRO TIPS:
Actives need to be administered in the form of cleaners, serums, essences or moisturizers because they need to be able to stay on the skin in order for them to do their job and make the changes your are looking for in your skin.
Keep in mind that if the active that you are applying is thick/heavy, you need to wait longer to let it soak in. Actives with a lighter consistency, you should be fine to wait 5 minutes between layering your actives.
Apply actives in a 13 dot technique to the face and neck to provide even distribution of product as well as protecting your investment. Products that contain actives are more pricey because they are putting in the hard work with their performance ingredients. Apply sparingly at first, then check in to see if your skin has gobbled it up. If so, add some more dots to the face of product until a dewy texture and complexion is achieved.
Best for: Acne and sun-damaged skin, surface wrinkles, fine lines, and darks spots.
Results after: For over-the-counter retinol, it can take up to six months so see a difference in skin tone and fine lines.
When to use: Before bed, after washing face and before other topicals.
Retinol can be found in: Naturopathica’sHoly Basil & Retinol Ageless Night Oil, Passion Fruit & Retinol Ageless Eye Serum and Argan & Retinol Advanced Wrinkle Remedy Night Gel Cream.
Retinol is a synthetic derivative of vitamin A, the group of fat-soluble vitamins common in carrots, eggs and sweet potatoes. Retinol is a gold-standard ingredient in skin care because it alters the behavior of aged cells so they act in a more youthful manner. It is the most widely studied of all actives and has been proven to help fade unwanted pigmentation, improve skin elasticity and smooth rough skin texture.Naturopathica has two highly effective retinols in
Naturopathica’s Holy Basil & Retinol Ageless Night Oil, Passion Fruit & Retinol Ageless Eye Serum and the Argan & Retinol Advanced Wrinkle Remedy Water Gel Cream.
These products are to be used at night only and are excellent for smoothing and refining skin texture, enhancing skin radiance and treating aging. Retinols boosts the amount of collagen your body makes and plumps out skin, cutting down fine lines and wrinkles. When retinol is incorporated into age-preventive skin care routines, it helps accelerate skin renewal, enhance collagen production and reduce the appearance of aging, uneven texture and age spots. It has been also found to improve overall skin tone and color and reduces mottled patches. One thing to keep in mind when using these retinol-based products mentioned above, may make the top layer of your skin dry and flaky.
Note*: If you are sensitive and new to retinols, start slow. Start with using the retinols 3 times week, then the following week, increase to every other night, then work you way up to every night. It is important that everyone be able to reap the benefits of retinol usage, but slow ans steady wins the race! You can also apply a not active daily moisturizer such as
Naturopathica’sCalendula Hydrating Cream or Marshmallow & Microalage Sensitivity Soothing Cream
to clean skin and then apply your retinol as as buffer. When in doubt, contact L-T Wellness for further consultation.
It is highly recommended that you incorporate these retinol products into your skin care routine at age 30, three to four times a week. By the 40s, every other night is beneficial and in the 50s, 60s and beyond, incorporate a retinol product five to seven times per week.
Applying vitamin A topically in the form of retinol can include the following benefits:
Prevents wrinkles as well as smooth out existing fine lines and wrinkles.
Brightens dull skin by exfoliating at a cellular level, which results in brighter and smoother new skin.
Regulates oily skin and minimize acne breakouts.
Fades dark age spots, sun spots and hyperpigmentation and even out complexion over time.
Due to its powerful cell renewal property, retinol can be incredibly helpful for people who often have acne and breakouts. It helps to normalize cell turnover and has an exfoliating effect that stops pores from clogging and pimples, blackheads and cysts from forming. YAY!!!
Please remember that it takes an average of 12 weeks for retinoic acid to produce noticeable changes in the skin. So stick with it for at least that long to see the benefits. You will not be sorry!
NIACINAMIDE:
Type: All round anti-ager
Best for: Brightening skin, fading brown spots, and helping improve barrier function (which will improve skin hydration). Helps improve acne and rosacea. Niacinamide may also help with the appearance of enlarged pores.
Results after: I find Niacinamide can work quite quickly - in the first two weeks you might notice some brightening and evening of the skin as well as pore size reduction (the appearance) and this impact seems to develop more over time.
When to use: You can use it in both morning and evening
Do/don’t mix with: Niacinamide plays well with most all other actives! That's one of my favorite things about it - you don't need to worry about it wreaking havoc with your other skincare BFFs!! Some people may be sensitive to niacinamide so start slow and increase accordingly.
Niacinamide can be found in
Naturopathica’sN. Poeticus & French Algae Brightening Essence and Vitamin K Brightening Eye Complex
You have heard about Vitamin A (Retinoids), Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) now it’s time to make best friends with Niacinamide (Vitamin B3). Niacinamide does a lot! It reduces inflammation, which eases redness from eczema, rosacea, acne, and other inflammatory skin conditions. It minimizes pore appearance and keeps skin smooth and moisturized while regulating sebum production. Pairing niacinamide and hyaluronic acid together mean that you are tackling your skin's hydration from both angles! Niacinamide helps to boost collagen production while hyaluronic acid improves elasticity so combining the two together can help improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Niacinamide has been shown to prevent the transfer of pigment within the skin, which can help reduce brown spots. It also creates less redness (thanks to vitamin B3's anti-inflammatory properties), preserves hydration, a strengthens the skin barrier, and the improves synthesis of healthy fats (key for glowing skin). Tackling pigmentation takes a multi-prong approach that should include vitamin C, arbutin, kojic acid and others. In addition, when you add niacinamide you get an ingredient that works differently. Niacinamide suppresses the transfer of melanosomes (melanin carriers) from melanocytes (melanin producer) to keratinocytes (cells in the outermost layer of the skin), while most other hyper pigmentation fighting ingredients block tyrosinase (an enzyme that plays a critical role in melanin production). So using niacinamide alongside these other ingredients enables us to tackle pigmentation issues from different angles at the same time, resulting in a quicker and more comprehensive solution.
With all of these positives, isn’t it time you started incorporating Niacinamide into your at home skin care regimen?
Anti-Aging
Reduction in redness
Reduction in hyperpigmentation and Post inflammatory hyperpigmentation
Reduction in pore appearance
Reduction in fine lines
Well tolerated by sensitive skin types
Reduces irritation caused by some retinoids and makes skin able to tolerate more actives
Boosts ceramides
Reinforces the skin barrier
Anti-inflammatory
Calms acne bacteria and reduces excessive oil production
Great for thin, devitalized skin
VITAMIN C:
Type: Antioxidant, skin brightener and all around anti-ager
Best for: Vitamin C is great for protecting against free radical damage, evening skin tone, and supporting the production of that all important collagen!
Results after: You'll see an increased glow pretty quickly - likely within a few weeks depending on the type and concentration you choose. Increasing collagen takes time and dedication so those results will come after three months minimum.
When to use: Typically I prefer to use my Vitamin C in the morning, layered over my essences.
Do/don’t mix with: Vitamin C (l-ascorbic acid) can be quite potent so you'll want to take care using it with any of the AHS or BHAs. It is definitely OK to use a vitamin C after an AHA or BHA toner but always watch for irritation. With the l-ascorbic acid form of Vitamin C you should avoid using at the same time as retinoids as they can make your Vitamin C unstable and less likely to penetrate the skin.
Vitamin C can be found in
Naturopathica’s Vitamin C 15 Wrinkle Remedy Serum and Vitamin C Revitalizing Lotion
Vitamin C or L-Ascorbic Acid, L-ascorbate, ascorbic acid is vitamin C in its purest form. It's the most bio-available form, meaning it is readily absorbed by the body through the bloodstream. The way we receive it orally is the same way we want to receive it through out skin, in it’s purest form. However, in order to reap the most benefit, it must be paired with the correct ingredients that will aid in absorption and proper delivery. Vitamin C can help reduce premature aging by protecting the skin from the untimely skin wrinkles that sun exposure can cause. Vitamin C also helps reduce premature wrinkling by stimulating the growth of collagen. It has the potential to thicken the dermis, diminish fine lines, and is essential for firm, youthful skin. On top of that, vitamin C is an antioxidant, meaning it protects skin cells from damaging free radicals caused by UV exposure and also aid in improving hyperpigmentation. Acne is one of the world's most common skin disorders. Vitamin C, is known for fighting free radical damage to skin cells and may help reduce acne-induced inflammation. Anyone dealing with these skin issues may want to consider adding a vitamin C serum and moisturizer to their skincare regimen. In my option, if tolerated, literally everyone should be using this powerful antioxidant!!!
Anti-Aging
Reduces hyperpigmentation and prevents future hyperpigmentation
Reduces Redness
Fights premature Aging
Reduces sunburn risk
Increases collagen levels
Well tolerated by most skin types
SUPEROXIDE DISMUTASE:
Type: Antioxidant
Best for: Overall anti-aging and antioxidant protection. Oxidative stresses are everywhere and the constant assault is aging. SOD helps to protect against that aging assault!
Results after: results are ongoing- many products with SOD also contain a whole host of hydrating ingredients and other antioxidants...This can improve the appearance of skin immediately and also over time.
Superoxide Dismutase such an exciting ingredient. It's a naturally-occurring enzyme found in the body that protects cells from highly reactive, cell-damaging superoxide radicals. Superoxide dismutase is the most abundant antioxidant in our body but like so many things, as we age we get depleted. I like to think of superoxide dismutase as a crime fighter and superoxide is the bad guy...We want that crime fighter on duty as much as possible! Superoxide dismutase doesn't like to work alone...as it scavenges free radicals (those pesky things that age us on a cellular level) it signals other antioxidants to come help. It is really a remarkable work horse that I think should be in every skincare routine!
ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS (AHAs)
Type: Exfoliant
Best for: Glow and cellular turnover.
Results after: You'll note a glow after the first use, with more visible results with continued use.
When to use: I like to use my AHAs in toner form in the morning.
Do/don’t mix with: Be careful using AHAs with Tretinoin or other strong retinoids… pace yourself!
Alpha Hydroxy Acids can be found in
Naturopathica’s N. Poeticus & French Lagae Brightening Essence, Sweet Cherry Brightening Enzyme Peel, Pear Fig Polishing Enzyme Peel and Pumpkin Purifying Enzyme Peel
There are a host of different AHAs out there, but my favorites are lactic and glycolic. AHAs work on the surface, eating away at dead skin to reveal a brighter, glowing complexion. They also work beneath the surface and help to even skin tone and texture while encouraging new cells to come to the top. I feel very strongly that AHAs should be essential component to most person's anti-aging routine. However, they can be drying and irritating. If your skin is prone to sensitivity, you'll want to go 'low and slow'. Lactic acid is not only more gentle than glycolic acid, it is also a humectant (draws in moisture). This means that lactic acid is a great place to start if you are dry while glycolic is a little more potent and best suited for those without dry skin issues. This doesn't mean that my dry skin friends can never use glycolic acid. Just always watch for irritation and think "gradual progression" with acid percentage and frequency.
BETA HYDROXY ACIDS (BHAs)
Type: Exfoliant
Best for: Acne and congested skin
Results after: Salycylic acid goes straight to work at desincrustation; dislodging dead skin and dissolving the stuff that blocks pores, but you’ll seen best results with continued use.
When to use: Depending on your skin concerns and sensitivity you may want to start with two to three times a week and work yourself up to daily use of a salycytic acid toner. Gels can be applied as needed to address specific areas of breakout. Salicylic washes are also a great choice as SA is one of the few acids that are efficacious even in a wash off form.
Do/don’t mix with: As with AHAs, be careful about combining BHAs with other potent active ingredients such as retinoids and ascorbic acid. Always watch for irritation (yes, I know I say that a lot lol).
Beta hydroxy acids can be found in
Naturopathica’sSweet Cherry Brightening Enzyme Peel and Pumpkin Purifying Enzyme Peel
Salicylic acid is the most well known BHA and is oftentimes included in products to address acne and clogged pores. This is because it’s oil-loving, meaning it can get deep into your pores and help exfoliate the pore lining enabling dirt, debris and makeup to be washed down the drain. Salicylic acid is also anti-inflammatory-making it the perfect first line of defense for acne and congestion (blackheads).
HYALURONIC ACID (HA)
Type: Hydrator
Best for: Dehydrated skin and professionally as a 'slip agent' when microneedling with a pen.
Results after: Depending on dehydration levels and the product you choose, you may see a difference right away.
When to use: Look for products that contain HA - that way it's easy to fit in twice a day
Do/don’t mix with: HA mixes with just about everything
Hyaluronic Acid can be found in
Cos de Baha’sHT Hyaluronic acid 10% and Naturopathica’s Vitamin C 15 Wrinkle Remedy Serum, Manuka Honey Hydrating Gel Mask, Argan & Peptide Advanced Wrinkle Remedy Water Cream, Passion Fruit & Retinol Ageless Eye Serum, Plant Stem Cell Booster Serum and Holy Basil & Retinol Ageless Night Oil
Hyluronic acid has been perhaps the most buzzed about ingredient of the past few years. You may have heard of hyaluronic acid (HA) in skincare but did you know that it is naturally found in our body? HA is an incredibly important component when it comes to healthy, vibrant, youthful skin. When you think of a child's face you might picture that supple, bouncy youthful skin. This is partially due to ample amounts of HA (collagen and elastin). As we age we want to re-hydrate the surface as much as possible and encourage natural HA production on the inside as well. The molecular sizes of different hyaluronic acids vary from bigger molecules that stay on top of the skin’s surface to smaller ones that can go in deeper into the epidermis.
BETA GLUCAN
Type: Hydrator, antioxidant, antibacterial and antiviral
Best for: Calms redness, supports skin barrier, smooths skin
Results after: Like hyaluronic acid, you'll see an initial increase in hydration
When to use: Morning, evening - or both!
Do/don’t mix with: Mix with what you like - it works well with all other ingredients.
Beta Glucan can be found in
Naturopathica’sOat Cleansing Facial Polish, Plant Stem Cell Booster Serum, Passion Fruit & Retinol Ageless Eye Serum and Vitamin C 15 Wrinkle Remedy Serum
Beta glucan is a humectant that, much like hyaluronic acid, attracts water to the top layers of skin. Beta glucan is an ingredient that soothes irritated skin and helps to calm redness. Beta glucan is a polysaccharide (a sugar) derived from yeast or oats typically and is your skin's best friend if you struggle with skin barrier issues (redness, dehydration, itchiness, flakiness or acne). The anti-aging benefits of BG are readily apparent as lines and wrinkles get slightly diminished with even the first use (hello hydration! hello calm skin!).
PEPTIDES
Type: Peptide
Best for: Anti-aging
Results after: Peptides require a commitment - I'd recommend three months before you evaluate effectiveness
When to use: Morning or night
Do/don’t mix with: Care must be taken when mixing peptides with strong antioxidants. I avoid using my peptides along with vitamin c in the form of L-ascorbic acid
Peptides can be found in
Naturopathica’sArgan & Peptide Advanced Wrinkle Remedy Water Cream and Argan & Peptide Wrinkle Repair Eye Cream
There are many types of peptides that take messages throughout our body. For example, when our collagen breaks down, signal peptides send a message telling our body to make more collagen to replace what’s been lost. Applying signal peptides topically entices our skin into thinking it needs to make more collagen. Perhaps the most widely known signal Peptide is Matrixyl™️ 3000 which is actually a combination of two peptides. Matrixyl™️ 3000 promotes the production of collagen and elastin by nourishing our supplies of fibroblasts and glycosaminoglycan. Sounds good, doesn't it? The interesting thing is that the studies back it up. One study showed that after two months of treatment with Matrixyl™️ 3000, the area occupied by deep wrinkles was reduced by 45%, and the skin’s tonicity increased by nearly 20%.
TRANEXAMIC ACID
Type: Pigment inhibitor, skin brightener
Best for: Fades discoloration, brightens skin, reduces the appearance of acne scars
Results after: Weeks to months. Everyone will respond differently to TA
When to use: I recommend that people start with a few times a week and see how the skin adapts. If all is well after the first 2 weeks (no dryness) then you can up to using it more often until you can tolerate it up to morning and night. If that is not tolerable, once a day is fine.
Do/don’t mix with: Tranexamic acid plays well with others but as always watch for irritation. Avoid use with retinoids (at the same time) to avoid irritation.
Tranexamic acid can be found in
Queen New York’s 7-in-1 White and Bright Super Serum
Tranexamic acid is all about helping to manage hyper-pigmentation and is one of my favorite ingredients to manage melasma, PIH and other pigment issues. Tranexamic acid works 2 ways-both as a tyrosinase inhibitor (like hydroquinone) and by blocking the transfer of melanin from the melanosomes to melanocytes (like niacinamide). Brilliant! Tranexamic acid also calms the helps restore the skin's barrier. This is a superstar in the fight against hyperpigmentation.
